June 29, 2009

shunka

shunka is a classic place in barcelona. 
traditional japanese, very close to the cathedral in the heart of town.
well known by locals, it is hard to get a table without reservation.
best try is sunday for lunch (up to 4pm).
once you get your seat in a table or the sushi bar, the printed menu has a large selection of classical japanese cuisine, marked by high quality mediterranean fish.
as expected, raw fish, japanese grill, tempuras and yakisobas dominate the offer. but some innovations are also there.
perhaps, the best characteristic of shunka is to serve japanese food with local fresh market ingredients, as razor clam sashimi for example.
the grilled small sardines, prepared in direct fire, get a crispy skin and very "buttery" texture for the meat. one of our favorites.
toro tataki (rare tuna belly with soy sauce) is simply perfect, as the mediterranean sea has some of the best tuna in the planet and here the preparation respects that, enhancing the taste and the texture... melting in the mouth...
sashimi, sushi, makis... whatever you feel like, will be good.
very good shari (sushi rice) and technique.
unagui (eel), toro (tuna belly), scallop, prawn, small sardine are a few suggestions, depending on the market.
wine list is quite interesting, with a good range of white wines. japanese beer is also available.
service is coherent with the proposal, as the staff is very attentive and well trained.
surely, one of the best places for japanese meals in bcn. 
the classic sushi-yakisoba choice can lead to a 30 euros/pax bill... but if you go for a good wine, end up repeating toro tatakis, unaguis and so on, it can go up to 70 euros/pax. worth paying for.
just, don't forget your reservation before heading there...
shunka - sagristans 5, bcn. 93 412 4991

May 24, 2009

pinotxo bar

located in La Boqueria, considered by many europe's most lively market, this family run venture is surely one of our favorites spots for saturday lunch.
cueing is a reality, eating stand is a possibility, but being happy with your meal is a certain thing.
market style, where you can eat in the bar counter or in one of the few high tables with stools, there is no written menu. you will be told about the daily available dishes for your choice and
suggestions will be happily given. many times, depending on the time you arrive, some of the dishes will be finished for the day... as everything is fresh and daily prepared!
here, some tips:
esqueixada de bacalao (raw salted cod salad) is a typical catalan dish, here served in great shape with lentils and egg. a great starting point for a many steps meal... as expected in the tapas land.
chipirons amb mongetas (baby squid with white beans) is a must. surprisingly good, as the sweet taste of the squid together with the firm texture of the small beans creates a great combination, topped by very aromatic olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
cigrons amb butifarra (chickpeas with blood sausage) is also very surprising, as the chickpeas are perfectly cooked, having a creamy interior without loosing its form and the sausage, on the hand, is completely melted and mixed all over the plate, providing a rich and aromatic taste.
the iberian ham croquettes don't need much explanation. it is just a matter of trying... and being delighted.
cap i pota (stewed veal hooves and head) is also a typical catalan recipe and is not as bizarre as it sounds. this gelatin rich stew is rounded by a touch of smoked paprika. a very special texture with a punchy taste... that keeps you dipping the bread until the plate is totally clean...
there are other stews depending on the market... either fish or meat, always with very rich sauce, in which all ingredients are perceived.
there is also an offer of live seafood (lobster, scampi, prawns and clams). grilled and topped with olive oil and parsley. 
definitely one of the best tapas bar in the town of tapas bar. 
3 generations, lead by the funny and happy Juanito Bayen, are behind the counter proudly serving locals and tourists.
great house wine, great coffee, great pastries... simply complement a great place, where simple preparations enhance the quality of amazing products.
open in market hours (lunch only and not on sundays), saturdays are crazily busy... but, worth the effort of waiting.
from 15 to 35 euros/pax, depending on the choices and amount of food... 
pinotxo bar- mercat de la boqueria, 466/467 
rambla st josep - barcelona 933.171731 (no reservations, though!)

May 03, 2009

dos palillos

relatively new, dos palillos is definitely one of the best restaurants in barcelona for us.
we've been there again this week and once more the "asian tapas" were astonishing.
their concept establishes a relation between asian and spanish gastronomic cultures, based on small dishes and the use of wooden sticks (chopsticks and toothpicks).
in real life, what you get to eat - either in the informal bar or the modern asian bar where chefs are just across the counter preparing and serving the food - is stuff like:
chicken crisps (chicken skin tempura with curry) - crazily tasty and crunchy;
onsen tamago (egg cooked in low temperature, served with japanese dashi and powdered soy sauce) - the richness of the liquid yolk mixes perfectly with the subtle smoked taste of the broth, punched by the salty sensation of soy sauce;
navajas thai (razor-shell with red curry oil, coriander sprouts, lemongrass and chili) - no comments needed...;
grilled oyster in sake - a great warm combination;
avocado pankoage (fried in japanese bread crumbs) - surprisingly good, as the warm avocado has a great texture;
the great temakis: toro, grilled eel or sea urchin roe - based on the "roll it yourself" japanese tradition of temakis, they serve you perfect shari in a bowl or plate, topped with the fish and with the nori by the side, for you to enjoy the ritual of rolling and eating your self-made temaki. the final touch is the freshly grated natural wasabi. (dos palillos was the first place in which we saw this in barcelona...) Nothing to compare with powdered wasabi, as it not aggressive at all, being much more subtle and aromatic.
papada ibérica (iberian pork double chin) cantonese style - the crispy exterior of the juicy charcoal grilled fat meat combined with the sweet and spicy glaze made this dish the perfect ending of an amazing meal...
in the sweet side, fruta cru is a surprising approach to the serving of "natural" fruit, as each fruit is flavored by a different element... making your melon taste like mint, for example.
besides the food being outstanding, the environment is also remarkable, as all staff makes you feel really comfortable. the asian bar is surely much more formal and glamourous (for dinner in this area you can only choose between 2 tasting menus), while in the bar - which aims to look like just another neighborhood bar - you can pick up from the menu.
everything is really taken care of by albert raurich (who spent 8 years as head-chef at elBulli), tamae imachi (former sommelier at elBulli) and the head-chef takeshi somekawa.
tasting: short version - 45 euros / long version - 60 euros (plus drinks)
by experience... a la carte, around 60 euros/pax, wine included. 
dos palillos - carrer de elisabets, 9, barcelona

May 01, 2009

can fabes

Its been already more than 3 years since we had our debut visiting a 3-michelin-stars restaurant.
So, this is a post about an old experience... as we do not know when we will have the chance to up-date our impressions.
santi santamaria's place in sant celoni (barcelona's surroundings) is a wonderful ancient cellar with modern interior. the ambient stands for the exclusiveness of the proposal. it is contemporary, luxurious and silent.
maybe the absence of music is intended to let you concentrate on what you eat...
in santamaria's case being contemporary doesn't mean being subversive. the chef's approach is quite classical in relation to techniques and presentation, letting products be the protagonists.
we had the tasting menu (fall season 2005) and after 3 years, the course we remember the most is the whole roasted wild duck, carved and presented in front of us, which was our choice from other possibilities as main course.
but, before the duck, a lot had happened. 
appetizers were great snacks that put us in the mood for what was coming.
we also recall a truffle broth. the broth was served hot in a earth-ware cup, with truffle shavings on its lid. the vapor released the truffle's aroma before it was mixed in the broth. 
there was more, mainly seafood.
and after the duck, cheese car was superb.
dessert was not remarkable, as we recall, petit-fours on the other hand... amazing.
regarding service, it was coherent with the concept, meaning, very attentive and professional.
a bit old-fashioned, though (with waitresses wearing male suits).
it was truly expensive, but worth every penny.
hopefully, it won't take too long before we can repeat the experience... The bill is a "once in a life-time" kind...
restaurante Can Fabes - San Joan 6, Sant Celoni, Catalunya, España

da romano

best risotto ever!
located in burano island, in the venetian lagoon, this traditional family restaurant was a place we were really excited to visit in a recent trip to venice. 
we had heard about their fish rice, made exclusively with fish stock and rice (no cream, no butter, no cheese) and wanted to be sure it was so creamy as we were told.
there was no frustration. the risotto was extremely rich.
the fish flavor was subtle and delicious, a proof of the quality of the ingredients.
and texture was perfect, combining a creamy feeling with grains maintaining their structure one-by-one. felt like "didn't know what risotto was before that".
besides the expected risotto, we also ate great mussels with clam as starter and grilled fish (a bit over cooked) as main courses.
in general, it was an unforgettable traditional venetian meal... in which the simplicity of preparation enhanced the enjoyment of fresh seafood. 
lunch for 2 with 1 starter, 2 first, 2 main courses, wine (Russiz Superiore Collio, 2007), water and tips: 150 euros.
trattoria Da Romano - Via Galuppi, 221, Burano, Italia

cal pep

Our first real post in this blog could not be about another place in Barcelona either than Cal Pep.
Firstly, what could be a better introduction than having a cue before opening hours everyday in its door?
For our own luck, that door is just around the corner...
Anyway, the cue is easily forgotten once you start being served, seated in the bar.
They do have a few tables, but don't count on them unless you reserve days or weeks in advance. Even if the place looks like just a bar, the food is "gastronomic restaurant level".
Starting from the house white wine (Sumarroca, Alt Penedès), which is a great value... 
(The glass has poor quality, though, unless you go for a more expensive bottle.)
Talking about what really matters: the food is simply great. 
Every time we've been there, food has always been super fresh and carefully prepared. Our favorites:
The best tortilla in town, with creamy interior and topped with subtle alioli.
Trifásico (deep-fried squid, small flounder and shrimps) is as dry (not oily) as it must be, allowing the perception of differences in taste among the 3 ingredients. Do not ask for lemon. We swear they will be offended.
Also deep-fried, the artichokes are another must.
Almejas con jamon (clams with iberian ham) and chipirones con garbanzos (baby squid with chickpeas) hot-pots have both amazing combination of the main ingredients with their own juice, as sauce.
And there is much more... tuna tartar, butifarra con foie (pork meat and foie-gras sausage), rape, prawns, mussels... whatever they suggest and you feel like... go for it.
But, be aware, there is no printed menu or price list.
By experience, we expect to pay around 80 euros (40/pax). 
Unless we order gambas de Palamós (prawns from Palamós), which are charged by weight and are quite expensive, raising the bill, but adding a unique flavor to an always pleasant meal.
Cal Pep - plaça de les olles, 8 - barcelona

hello world!

here we are. starting this blog to register and share our experiences with good food... in our daily life and while traveling around...
as we are currently living in barcelona, most posts will talk about places in this city. but, that shall not be a problem... as barcelona is a great place to be if you are interested in gastronomy.
gastronomy doesn't mean high-end, it means quality. 
good ingredients nicely treated... from good old grandma's recipes to fresh new wildest grandson's dreams... always enhancing flavor, above everything.
our goal is to continue searching for great flavors and the idea is to keep you up-dated!